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Tasilaq, Ammassalik, Greenland |
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By East
Greenlandic standards, Tasilaq is a megalopolis. Over a third of East
Greenland's 6,000 people live here. Compared to Kulusuk, Tasilaq is a bustling,
modern metropolis with everything one could need and desire. There's a post
office, hospital, two functioning ATM machines, a couple of supermarkets, a
football field, a disco/bar and a tourist information center. Perhaps more
importantly, for travelers at least, there's a couple of places to stay and a
nice network of local travel agents willing to arrange a variety of adventure
trips. These include kayaking, iceberg safaris, helicopter rides, hiking &
camping, whale watching ,etc. In peak season accommodation does get fully
booked up so I was lucky to find a place at the Hotel Angmagssalik. The hotel
had several trips going daily so I managed to join one of their iceberg
cruises.
Robert Peroni at the Red House arranged a spectacular boat
trip through the Sermiligaaq Fjord all the way to the Knud Rasmussen Glacier.
This was a truly fascinating journey through tantalizing icebergs and
ice-choked fjords. We saw several whales along the way there and back. A pair
of humpbacks swam peacefully around our boats as we all gawked and took photos,
on the way back one particularly enthusiastic humpback whale put on a truly
stupendous show, dancing around the surface with its arms and flipper, leaping
out of the water in spectacular fashion. The glacier itself was nothing short
of breathtaking. There was also an abandoned US military base scattered with
rusty barrels, cranes and military vehicles, etc. In all my travel experiences,
I'd probably rank the Knud Rasmussen Glacier expedition somewhere in my top
ten, as it contained pretty much everything you could ask for in a truly
authentic Arctic adventure. All that was missing were some polar bears!
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 Above:
One of the many breathtaking icebergs we saw in the Sermiligaaq Fjord Below:
a panorama view of the Knud Rasmussen Glacier |
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 a humpback whale swims across the
fjord |
 this whale came right up to our boat |
 the view from my hotel. The iceberg in the
center of the bay eventually broke (below) |
 With stadia like these, Greenland should be ready
to host the next world cup. Just got to decide which confederation to join,
Europe or North America? |
 The aptly name, 'Valley of Flowers'
hike |
 Where I stayed - Hotel Angmagssalik |
 Above: Without a conventional network of roads,
dogsled is a vital mode of transport in Greenland, especially in the
winter. |
 Above: If you can't get in to the Red House or
the Hotel Angmagssalik, there's always this place to stay. Check out time
is negotiable. |
 Tasilaq back in the days |
 traditional transportation methods |
 more modern transportation methods |
 the iceberg cruising boat |
 icebergs in Sermiligaaq Fjord |
 icebergs in Sermiligaaq Fjord |
 icebergs in Sermiligaaq Fjord |
 icebergs in Sermiligaaq Fjord |
 icebergs in Sermiligaaq Fjord |
 icebergs in Sermiligaaq Fjord |
 Knud Rasmussen Glacier |
 Knud Rasmussen Glacier |
 Knud Rasmussen Glacier |
 Knud Rasmussen Glacier |
 Knud Rasmussen Glacier |
 Knud Rasmussen Glacier |
 Looking back through the fjord |
 Knud Rasmussen Glacier |
 Knud Rasmussen Glacier |
 Knud Rasmussen Glacier |
 Knud Rasmussen Glacier |
 local fishermen |
 Sermiligaaq Fjord |
 Sermiligaaq Fjord |
 Sermiligaaq Fjord |
 Sermiligaaq Fjord |
 Sermiligaaq Fjord |
 Sermiligaaq Fjord |
 Sermiligaaq Fjord |
 Sermiligaaq Fjord |
 abandoned US military base in the Sermiligaaq
Fjord |
 abandoned US military base in the Sermiligaaq
Fjord |
 abandoned US military base in the Sermiligaaq
Fjord |
 abandoned US military base in the Sermiligaaq
Fjord |
 The dancing humpback whale |
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