Have you ever taken what you thought would be a slight detour
which turned out to be a lot longer than you thought it would be but pleasantly
surprised you took it in the end? Well this was what happened to me when I
rendezvoused for the night in Belgrade, Serbia on my way from Hungary onto my
final destination, Romania. My initial plan was to take catch a Bucharest-bound
train from Budapest and get off in Brasov, Romania. Looking at the map, I
realized that Belgrade was a quick seven-hour train-ride away from Budapest and
that technically I wouldn't be gaining that much more distance onto Brasov than
going directly from Budapest. This logic turned out to be flawed however, as
while Serbia is well connected to Hungary via public transport; Romania is an
entirely different prospect. There were virtually no busses and the train
schedule erratic. I wound up having to take a nightly train from Belgrade to
Brasov, via connections at Timisoara and Arad - a grueling 15 hour overnight
journey, with train stopovers included. However, regret this logistic
miscalculation I most certainly did not as my two-day detour in Serbia's
formerly war-torn capital turned out to be one of the highlights of my
trip.
With only one night, there was not
much time to spare and after having found a place to stay and taking a short
rest, set off to see the city. One nice thing about Belgrade is that its center
is very compact. The train station is just a short walk up-a-hill away from the
city center and most of the sites are located between Kalemegdan Citadel and
the Saint Sava Cathedral, a pleasant 1.5 kilometer walk. It was only natural to
stay somewhere between the two, so I checked into the Hotel Kasina, overlooking
a square opposite the more illustrious Hotel Moscow. Another thing I really
liked about Belgrade was that, as opposed to Budapest, it was almost devoid of
tourists, especially during this time of the year (September). Despite this,
things are well marked in English and tourist information booths plentiful, yet
with hardly any tourists it seems as though they have all been put in place
especially for me. I also found myself having most of the tourist attractions
to myself. A third thing I really enjoyed about the city was my encounters with
the locals. While Serbians may get a bad rap, I found those I talked to be very
friendly and approachable. Keeping in mind, I was selective about who I did
talk to, not trying to stike up a conversation with any of the ultra-soccer
fans at the Partizan vs Rad soccer match. I also found that, despite the US-led
NATO bombings on the city a good decade before, Serbians were equally as
interested in me as I was in them - wondering what an American was doing in
their city.
Right: Sain Sava Cathedral, Below: Action from the FK
Partizan v Rad match.
The most natural place to start off in Belgrade was the Saint
Sava Cathedral, which while still not entirely complete (mostly notable in the
interior) is still an impressive structure and reminiscent of Hagia Sophia. It
is in fact the largest Orthodox Church in the world by volume. Serbia is
notorious for its soccer hooligans so I was sure to try and catch a game while
I was there. I wasn't able to catch the historic Partizan v Red Star derby but
I did manage to see FK Partizan hammer local rivals Rad 3-0 with the notorious
Grobari Partizan-ultras in full voice. The next day I checked out both the
Nikolai Tesla Museum (one of the most overlooked scientists of his time) and
spent the rest of the day at the Kalemegdan Citadel complex, where most locals
go to wander as well. Perhaps the thing about Belgrade that makes it special
however is not so much its monuments or tourist attractions but its nightlife.
Belgrade promotes itself as the new party capital of Europe and the locals
certainly take to the streets when the sun goes down. The sports mad Serbs were
not too happy that night when their basketball team lost to Turkey in the World
Basketball Championship semi-finals though.
I guess the downfall to
Belgrade would be the accommodation situation is not the greatest. While I had
no trouble finding a room, what you get for what you pay is a firm reminder
that you are now entering Eastern European standards. However, the
complimentary breakfast at the Kasina was massive and the view from my room's
top floor porch made it hard to complain. Food was probably another downer,
while portions were never meager; the quality was usually of the fast food
type. Despite these minor blemishes, I thoroughly enjoyed my deviation into the
ex-Yugoslavian capital city and found myself leaving wanting more. I think a
return trip to see the 'greater-Serbia' will definitely be in the cards in the
near future.
Student, cultural center
Hotel Moscow
below: I wasn't the only American in town that
month
