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Lebanon
October,
2004 |
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| Above: Despite being one of the smallest countries in the world with an area of just a little over 10,000 square kilometers, Lebanon is a country of enormous contrasts - both culturally and geographically. From the Hezbollah infested archeological sanctuary of Baalbeck to the towering Virgin Mary statue of Harissa that overlooks Jounieh - a party suburb of northern Beirut. And from the spectacular caves of Jeita Grotto to the emblematic Cedar forest reserve in the Qadisha Valley - Lebanon is a vast country containing an enormous variety of landscapes and peoples. |
The first stop on my west-Middle Eastern odyssey was Lebanon and its capital city, Beirut. Located on a peninsula on the Mediterranean Sea, Beirut at times resembles more of European seaside city than a Middle Eastern capital; however, the city’s many towering mosques and sporadic Islamic architecture remind you that you are on the far eastern tip of the Mediterranean. Beirut is very much a bridge between east and west, Europe and Arabia and a fantastic place to spend a couple of days as well as nights, enjoying the city’s renowned nightlife. It is one of the region’s most vibrant cities and also a city of contrasts. Glamorous fashion boutiques may be located next to run down bullet-holed buildings that serve as a reminder of the horrendous civil war that divided this city along the infamous Green Line during the Lebanese Civil War.
After Beirut, I headed north to the castled town of Tripoli via Jounieh, to take the teleferique (cable car) up to the Basilica of our Lady of Lebanon for stunning views of the city, Byblos – a 7,000 thousand year old Phoenician town on the coast, and Jeita Grotto – a spectacular limestone cave situated east of Beirut. From Tripoli, I made my way up to Bcharré to do some trekking through the awesome Qadisha Valley. Bcharré is not only the birthplace of revered author of the Prophet, Khalil Gibran but is the base point to see the treasured Lebanese Cedar trees – the symbol of Lebanon. From Tripoli, I then headed north to Syria.
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One of the most amazing experiences I had on my trip was on my way back to Beirut from Syria. I decided to overnight at the town of Baalbek. Set in the Bekaa Valley, Baalbek is best known for two things. Firstly, it is the home some of the most impressive Roman ruins in the region as it was formerly called Heliopolis, or City of the Sun. The remains of the once-extraordinary temple complex are dominated by the colossal Temple of Bacchus. Baalbek is also known in more recent times as the main bastion in Lebanon for the Shi’a Islamic political and paramilitary party of Hezbollah whose influence can be detected all over the town center. Memorial paintings of martyrs are hung up on street lamps all over the town and the slogan “Hezbollah welcomes you!” appears in more place than one.
That night as I was walking around that town, the main street was closed off as the Hezbollah militia was putting on a special demonstration. I decided to pop into a nearby café to watch the show. The friendly café owner, after welcoming me then asked me where I was from. Surrounded by Hezbollah freedom-fighters I thought it best not to shout “Texas - America!” so I mumbled, “Um… New Zealand…” After a brief exchange of words the owner finally asked, “Who Mr. New Zealand? You know, Mr. America George Bush, Mr. Lebanon Mr. Lahoud… who Mr. New Zealand”…. I scratched my head and mentioned the first Kiwi that came to mine (ex-Split Endz and Crowded House singer), “Um, it’s Prime Minister Neil Finn!” I replied. He fortunately accepted the answer, “Oh, Mr. Neil Finn… welcome!”
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E-mail me @:
glennaldo_sf@hotmail.com
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